Alpine Club/JMCS/SMC Winter Lectures 2018-19

Please support the speakers who will all be guests of the Alpine Club/JMCS/SMC for the evening, and will have put in some considerable effort to produce a talk for us. 9 October John Porter – A Brief Gold Light  

We are indeed privileged to begin the season with a talk by John Porter, current President of the Alpine Club.

The ascent of the SW of Everest in 1975 occurred at the end of one era in British mountaineering – that of large, extravagant, national expeditions. In many ways these were an extension of the Great Game, and it was a national triumph. It proved that just about any expedition with enough money, oxygen, Sherpas and skilled manpower could succeed.

In the same year, the East Ridge of Dunagiri was climbed by Joe Tasker and Dick Renshaw. The ingredients for that remarkable 2 man unsupported 11 day up and down ascent were primarily determination and luck. While the national press revelled in the Everest ascent and the fact that we had once again beaten a load of other nations to the prize, the inheritors of the legacy of Tillman and Shipton went ‘wow’ on the Tasker Renshaw climb. It fired up a generation that nearly climbed itself into extinction.

A Brief Gold Light is the story of that generation covering the years from 1976-1986 from the Boardman-Tasker ascent of the West Face of Changabang to the disastrous evets on K2 when 13 climbers lost their lives including Alan Rouse and Julie Tullis. John Porter was both an observer and a participant in this story. His biography of Alex MacIntyre who died on Annapurna in 1982 is part of this wider story.

The evening will be hosted by Zoe Strong. Please contact Zoe preferably by the day before the lecture if you would like to dine:   zoeflow@hotmail.com 13 November Douglas Anderson  

You may remember the superb account given by our member Douglas Anderson in 2011 when he described his epic adventure to Patagonia in a small boat built out of sand, cement and chicken wire, where on arrival, they were not applauded but thrown in jail and then deported. Douglas has since then had a huge connection with Greenland where he now has a home and tonight he will describe the Anderson Family’s East Greenland Voyages - the First 40 Years.

Included in the packed programme will be mountain exploration, first ascents, glacier travel, polar bear encounters, toddling to summits with toddlers, pack ice navigation, owning your own home in Greenland etc etc.Surely one talk not to miss!

The event will be hosted by Brian Shackleton and if you wish to join him and the speaker for a meal beforehand then please contact Brian at:   shackletonbr@gmail.com 11 December Murdoch Jamieson  

An evening with Murdoch Jamieson. Murdoch is one of Scotland’s leading climbers and I can do no better than quote him from his Scarpa blog:

I’m very passionate about climbing in the Scottish mountains, particularly the North West Highlands. As a result this is home to my personal best climbing achievements. These include; establishing ‘100 years of Solitude’ E8 6c with Iain Small in Carnmor, opening steep mixed routes on Beinn Eighe, particularly ‘Root Of All Evil’ IX,8 with John Orr and crimping my way up ‘Black Sox Direct’ 8a+ with my local climbing friends at Am Fasgadh. Needless to say, bouldering in Torridon in amongst snow-capped mountains and blue skies should not be missed. But at the end of the day, nothing beats attempting to onsight a hard summer trad or winter route!

My main focus is split between Scottish summer trad, winter and sport climbing, however I try to spend time bouldering and running in the hills. Getting out and making onsight attempts and repeating hard Scottish mountain routes means a lot to me. Things like ‘Realm of the Senses’ E7 in the Cairngorms, ‘Skye Wall’ E7/8 in the Cuillin, ‘Fascist Groove Thang’ E7 on Beinn Eighe, ‘The End of Innocence Direct’ E8 in Glencoe to name a few. But opening up ‘100 Years of Solitude’ E8 in Carnmor with a good friend will always be hard to beat. However I have also made the first ascent or repeated many hard Scottish winter routes such as ‘Root of All Evil’ IX,8 (FWA), ‘Shooting the Breeze’ IX,8 and ‘The God Delusion’ IX,9 to name a few.

Exhausted? Well come along and recover. The evening will be hosted by Viv Scott and if you would like to eat beforehand then please contact him at:   northwallfun@gmail.com 2019 8 January Paula Williams - Petticoats and Pinnacles

Petticoats and Pinnacles Here’s an interesting one for you - an illustrated talk by National Library of Scotland curator Paula Williams who will....

delve into the National Library’s collections, from manuscripts to film, to show how Scottish women have picked up their skirts and scaled the heights!
All will be revealed (sic), for free, this evening!

The evening will be hosted by John Fowler. Contact him if you would like to dine at:   jrrfowler@tiscali.co.uk 12 February Derek Buckle

Since 2008 Derek Buckle has organised numerous exploratory mountaineering expeditions to the Indian Himalaya where he and team members successfully climbed many major peaks for the first time. In 2016 and 2017 he eventually managed to secure climbing permits for the East Karakoram, a sensitive area for which access was severely restricted for non-Indian nationals until relatively recently. In this talk he will describe highlights from his two exploratory expeditions to the Nubra Valley region of Ladakh, which resulted in the first ascents of several hitherto unclimbed 6,000 m peaks.

The evening will be hosted by John Allen. Please contact him if you would like to join him and the speaker for a meal beforehand at:   hillandben@f2s.com 12 March Members' slides/images

Our season closes with the traditional opportunity to amaze your friends with your exploits over the last few months. Put your images on a memory stick - no more than say 20 and bring it along. And if all you have done is some hill walking in Scotland, well that’s absolutely fine - let’s see the pics!

Bob Aitken is the host for the evening and if you would like to dine in each other’s company then contact him on at:   bob_aitken@btopenworld.com


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